Itneg

The indigenous highland people called Tingguians or Itneg are found in Northwestern Luzon, in the province of Abra. They are known for their handing down of traditions to younger generations through stories, art, music, and dance, which are also emanated in their textile designs. Tingguian designs are typically straight and basic, yet they have a wide range of interpretations.

Itneg textile motifs revolve around the topics of animism, anthropomorphism, geography, agriculture, livelihood, and folklore. The Itneg's woven textile designs have clearly portrayed their environment and ability to adapt (Respicio “Dulimaman”). Some textiles are only used on exceptional events like births, weddings, and harvesting. In fact, they are also known as the “natural dye makers”. The vividness of the colors in this shroud only demonstrates their ability of controlling the strength of the dyes they manufacture from locally available materials.

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Weaving Techniques

Tingguian weavers perform a rite before beginning to weave. It entails the sacrifice of a native pig, as well as dancing and praying to Pinaing, the goddess of weaving who, according to Tingguian folklore, is the goddess of weaving.

Pinilian is a grid-style weaving pattern containing deer, eagle, lizard, flower, eight-pointed star, sinang-kabayo (horse), sinan-tao (human figure) and other complicated Pinilian motif. The Tingguians were the only ones who knew what these symbols meant. These themes are thought to ward off evil spirits and serve as status insignia among the tribes.

Pinilian fabric is used to make a wrap-around skirt, a men's loincloth, a headband, and a belt. Important rites also include the use of Pinilian blankets. The Tingguians taught the pinilian technique to the Ilocanos.

Basic Design Motifs in Itneg Textile Weaves

Motifs based on the social position in the rice-based agrarian economy:

1.) Mata-mata- are eye forms that allude to a spirit related to rice. The forms resemble the shape of rice grains, which are the integral source of livelihood. Rice is Itneg's life source and foundation. As a result, rice is seen as a spirit that is always on the watch, similar to the "mata'' or eyes.

2.) Inal-alsong- resembles rice mortar, which is an instrument of the itnegs in storing their crops. The opening of the “V-shape” illustrated in the design represents bounty. The frequent pairing of the mata-mata and inal-alsong forms in their blankets and wrap-around cloths strengthens the allusion that the rice spirit gives them good and bountiful life.

3.) Ginaygayaman- is made up of rows of the mata-mata and inal-alsong designs. Its form resembles a centipede (body- mata-mata and inal-alsong; feet- tiny diamonds). The term “ginaygayaman” rooted from the word “gayaman” or centipede. The centipede is regarded by the Itnegs as an auspicious creature and endowed with unusual strength.

Motifs related to anitos or spirits reflecting the multi-spirit world of Itneg Agrarian Society:

4.) Sinan-puso (heart)- is a design that refers to the pig’s heart. In Itneg rituals, the pig is the main sacrificial animal, including healing rituals. Itnegs believe that if this design is featured in their blankets, it is thought to assure the user complete protection from harm or evil doings.

5.) Kusikus/ Alipugpug- refers to the whirlpool/ whirlwind design pattern. It is considered the most engaging design pattern in all Itneg blankets. This design consists of concentric circles formed by negative and positive squares and rectangles. Illusionary movements can be seen when staring at the negative and positive spaces.

There are 180 rotational symmetries in the kusikus pattern around the center of each central rectangle. Reflectional symmetries have axes that are perpendicular to one another and intersect at a 180-degree rotational center.

The planar pattern's symmetry group is type p2mm.

Motif of flowers and leaves depicting mostly those of medicinal value

6.) Busilak- refers to the design that features a wild plant flower that grows in abundance in fields and hillslopes. Itnegs and Ilocanos use the white sap from the Busilak’s stem as an ejector of thorns embedded in the skin.

7.) Sinan sabong- This flower motif is commonly seen in Itneg woven blankets. Sinan sabong has various types such as Sinan sabong ti parya (Momordica charantia L. Amorgoso) or bitter melon flowers, Sinan sabong ti lenganga (Sesainum indicum) or flowers of the sesame plant, and the sunflowers.

Cosmic motif

8.) Binitbituen- resembles a star, sometimes specifically designated by the term “sinan-baggak” or morning star. The Itnegs consider the star as a guide in their farming and fishing activities and livelihood.

Rivers and mountain motif

9.) Kinarkarayan- is one of the most common designs or subjects in the blankets of Itneg. This design is an emotive picture of Abra's most notable physical features: the big meandering rivers amid hills and mountains.

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References:

IFUGAO FASHION: THE HISTORY AND MEANING BEHIND THE LOOK. (2020, April 30). Retrieved August 12, 2021, from https://vintagallery.com/blogs/news/ifugao-fashion-the-history-and-meaning-behind-the-look

Tingguian Weaving Traditions. (n.d.). Retrieved October 12, 2021, from https://traveleronfoot.wordpress.com/2019/03/31/tingguian-weaving-traditions/