Ifugao

One of the known Ethnic groups in the Philippines are the Ifugao people because of their famous man-made Banaue Rice Terraces found in the mountains of Ifugao Province in northern Luzon. In fact, the word Ifugao is said to have come from ipugo, which means “from the hill.”(Ethnic Groups of the Philippines, 2021)

Looking at the rich culture and traditions of Ifugaos, their textiles are renowned for their sheer beauty, bright colors and unique patterns. Artisans by nature, Ifugao fabrics are hand-woven on looms using traditional, age-old techniques passed on through generations. It’s an elaborate process with many stages that requires patience, skill and attention to detail (Vinta Gallery, 2020).

---

Weaving Technique

“At Kiangan, the birthplace of Ifugao, weaving has always been a part of the community’s daily activities; may it be for economic purposes, cultural preservation or personal use. "

- Aguilar, 2019

The Ifugaos of Kiangan both practice traditional weaving, which follows old-age traditions and Ikat technique. This technique is described as tightly wrapping together the bundles of yarn used followed by dyeing as many times to create a beautiful pattern or design.

The color scheme used by the Ifugao weavers is determined on what the weavers have on hand. The majority of colorants come from natural sources, such as leaves, trees, mud from riverbanks, or plants like mayana, which give the thread a greenish or yellowish hue.

Traditional patterns are generally used, which are usually nature-inspired and based on beliefs. The bayawak design called Binanniya, for example, is named after a gigantic lizard that is thought to be one of the gods that came down to teach residents about water irrigation.

Weaving, without a doubt, necessitates the artisan's patience, commitment, hard effort, creativity, and attention to detail.

---

Common Pattern Designs in the textiles of Kiangan Community, Ifugao

1.) Binittuwon- In Ifugao mythology, stars symbolize the children of the sun and moon. These star patterns refer to a sign of abundance and fertility for the Ifugaos particularly when woven on a woman’s belt and clothing.

Binittuwon Design Incorporated in the Ifugao's Clothing

2.) Hinulgi- The hinulgi is a complex pattern of diamonds, x’s and v’s. These patterns are found in gamong blankets and sometimes the baya’ung.

Hinulgi Design Incorporated in the Ifugao's Clothing

3.) Linuhhung- This pattern represents a mortar vessel, which are used by Ifugaos to store their harvested crops in. This design also represents the agricultural gods, the superior deities of the Ifugao.

4.) Hinappiyo- Hinappiyo is a design that symbolizes a shield. This design represents the Maknogan or Inumban, which are known to be benevolent protectors of the Ifugao.

Linuhhung and Hinappiyo Textile Design

Linuhhung & Hinappiyo Design Incorporated in the Ifugao's Clothing

5.) Inambayung- This pattern is used in the gammit skirt and inlah’dang blanket. “Ambayung” is a triangular shaped bag with brass handles that is used to contain essential personal needs like amulets. Inambayung represents the Halupe or charmer gods who consecrate these amulets to keep a person away from danger.

Inambayung Design Incorporated in the Ifugao's Clothing

Other Information about Ifugao's Clothing

Ampuyou or Tolgè: (Hand-woven “Tapis” or skirts worn by the Ifugao Women:

The “Tolgè” is the traditional wrap-around skirt of the Ifugao women. Since there are various major Ifugao groups, there are also different variations of their skirts. Even though there are many variations, all of them follow basic patterns, designs and colors. Each design is valuable as it speaks their identity and place of origin.

Samples:

The gammit is the most ornate of all the Ifugao skirts having all the symbols used in other traditional textiles. It was originally woven using the ikat or binobodan technique (Ifugao Nation, 2021).

Kiangan/ Asipulo Gammit and Bongol Beads

The gammit is made up of two panels joined together by the takdog stitch and hemmed on its edges with the hambulud.

Gammit an binobodan

The “innulog” design, which resembles serpents as a sign of the importance of boundaries (Suacillo, 2019), is used in the edges.

Gammit Ibune, Lagawe

---

References:

Suacillo, G. (2019, October 10). A quick guide to indigenous textile symbols. Retrieved August 12, 2021, from https://nolisoli.ph/68912/habi-textile-symbols-asuacillo-20191010/

Tolgè (part3: The Gammit). (2021, April 28). Retrieved August 12, 2021, from https://ifugaonation.com/blogs/news/tolge-part3-the-gammit

Ifugao, Tuwali. (2021, July 19). Retrieved August 12, 2021, from http://www.ethnicgroupsphilippines.com/people/ethnic-groups-in-the-philippines/ifugao-tuwali/

IFUGAO FASHION: THE HISTORY AND MEANING BEHIND THE LOOK. (2020, April 30). Retrieved August 12, 2021, from https://vintagallery.com/blogs/news/ifugao-fashion-the-history-and-meaning-behind-the-look